Question 1

How to Assemble and Install a Starter Motor with Correct Pinion Clearance on Chevrolet El Camino?

Accepted Answer

Install the brush assembly to the field frame by first attaching the brushes to their holders, then assembling the insulated and grounded brushholders with the V-spring and locating the unit on its support pin. Push the holders and spring to the bottom of the support and rotate the spring to engage the V in the support slot. Connect the ground wire to the grounded brush and the field lead wire to the insulated brush, and repeat these operations for the second set of brushes. Smear silicone oil onto the drive end of the armature shaft and slide the clutch assembly (pinion to the front) onto the shaft, followed by the pinion stop/retainer with its open end facing away from the pinion. Stand the armature vertically on a piece of wood, position the snap-ring on the end of the shaft, and drive it onto the shaft using a hammer and hardwood. Slide the snap-ring down until it drops into its groove, then install the thrust collar on the shaft with the shoulder next to the snap-ring, squeezing the thrust collar and stop/retainer together until the snap-ring fully enters the retainer. Lubricate the drive housing bushing with silicone oil, ensuring the thrust collar is positioned against the snap-ring, and slide the armature and clutch assembly into the drive housing while engaging the shift lever with the clutch. Position the field frame over the armature, applying sealing compound between the frame and the solenoid case, and carefully place the field frame against the drive housing to avoid damaging the brushes. Lubricate the bushing in the commutator end-frame with silicone oil, place the leather brake washer on the armature shaft, and slide the commutator end-frame onto the shaft. Reconnect the field coil connectors to the MOTOR terminal of the solenoid, then check the pinion clearance by connecting a 6-volt battery between the solenoid S terminal and ground while fixing a heavy connecting cable between the MOTOR terminal and ground to prevent the starter from rotating. Energizing the solenoid will push the pinion forward into its normal cranking position. Push the pinion away from the stop/retainer to eliminate any slack and check the clearance between the face of the pinion and the face of the stop/retainer using a feeler gauge, ensuring it is between 0.010 and 0.140 inch for correct engagement with the flywheel or driveplate ring-gear; if incorrect, dismantle the starter to replace any worn or distorted components, as no adjustment is provided.

Question 2

Is it advisable for the home mechanic to purchase a new or factory-rebuilt starter motor unit instead of attempting to disassemble and test the existing one on Chevrolet Caprice?

Accepted Answer

Due to the critical nature of disassembling and testing the starter, it may be advisable for the home mechanic to purchase a new or factory-rebuilt unit. If an overhaul is decided upon, check the availability of singular replacement components before proceeding. Begin by disconnecting the starter field coil connectors from the solenoid terminals, then unscrew and remove the through bolts. Next, remove the commutator end-frame, field frame assembly, and armature from the drive housing. Slide the two-section thrust collar off the end of the armature shaft, and using a suitable tube, drive the stop/retainer up the armature shaft to expose the snap-ring. Extract the snap-ring from its groove and slide the stop/retainer and overrunning clutch assembly from the armature shaft. Dismantle the brush components from the field frame, release the V-shaped springs from the brushholder supports, and remove the brushholder support pin to lift the complete brush assembly upwards. Disconnect the leads from the brushes if they are worn down to half their original length and need replacement. The starter is now completely dismantled except for the field coils; if these are found defective during testing, removal of the pole shoe screws is best left to a service station with the necessary pressure driver. Clean all components and replace any obviously worn parts. Avoid undercutting the insulation between the commutator segments on molded type commutators; for conventional types, undercut the insulation by 1/32 inch using an old hacksaw blade, ensuring the undercut is the full width of the insulation and the groove is square at the bottom. After undercutting, brush away all dirt and dust. Clean the commutator by spinning it while wrapped with number 00 sandpaper, avoiding any other abrasive materials. If the commutator is in poor condition, it may be turned down in a lathe to provide a new surface, ensuring to undercut the insulation afterward. To test the armature for ground, use a lamp-type circuit tester by placing one lead on the armature core or shaft and the other on a segment of the commutator; if the lamp lights, the armature is grounded and must be replaced. To test the field coils for open circuit, place one test probe on the insulated brush and the other on the field connector bar; if the lamp does not light, the coils are open and must be replaced. To test the field coils for ground, place one test probe on the connector bar and the other on the grounded brush; if the lamp lights, the field coils are grounded. The overrunning clutch cannot be repaired and must be replaced as a complete assembly if faulty.

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